Discovering Yellowstone National Park in winter

Thousands of visitors travel to Yellowstone National Park every summer. Why go in the winter when there is almost nobody there? Photo: Yellowstone Back Country

MONTANAFebruary 10, 2013 – Trivia question: How big is 2,200,000 acres? If you guessed “the size of Yellowstone National Park” you’d be dead on.

America’s oldest official national park, established by Ulysses S. Grant in 1872, Yellowstone spreads across three states — Wyoming, Idaho and Montana. While Wyoming claims 96% of the land in Yellowstone, the three percent that tiptoes into Montana is unquestionably spectacular.

A ride into paradise

But here’s a little secret about one of our country’s most popular wilderness regions: one of the best times to visit is during the winter. There are virtually no cars and hardly any people. Wildlife is in abundance and the snow-covered landscapes are pristine. Geothermal fountains gush from the center of the earth. It’s like being at the midpoint of creation.

Montana’s primary gateway to the park is West Yellowstone, which is reminiscent of a frontier town in the mid-1800s. Unlike most cities in the United States that dread the thought of snow-packed streets, West Yellowstone thrives on them, eschewing plowing them so that snow mobiles and Sno-cats have ready access to the seemingly endless miles of Yellowstone’s wilderness.

Thermal mud pot

From the west entrance, located about a mile and a half from West Yellowstone, it is a thirty mile ride to view Old Faithful, the famed geyser that has been erupting roughly every hour for centuries. Along the way visitors pass lakes, canyons, rivers and mountains while traveling through the Yellowstone Caldera, an active volcano where mud pots boil and steam spews from cracks in the earth.

It is impossible to be unaffected by Yellowstone’s sensations of primeval nature when thermal mists merge with powdery wisps of snow smoke, eerily reminding us that we live on a planet that is still evolving.

Bombardier ready for action

Many visitors prefer the independence of tracking through Yellowstone via snow mobile, versus  a Sno-cat, which is slower, bulkier, noisier and more confining which, therefore, allows less opportunity to commune with nature.

Indeed, many recent incarnations of the Sno-cat are relatively large which can be cumbersome. Oddly enough, Yellowstone Alpen Guides (, a tour company based in West Yellowstone, uses older snowcoach technology that offers smaller, faster, less intrusive, more private exploration of Yellowstone than its more contemporary relatives.

The fire engine red, Canadian-built Bombardiers carry just eight passengers, giving them speed and flexibility as well as protection from the elements. Best of all, participants can converse with their guide while adapting the tour to personal wishes.

Madison, roughly the halfway point between the main entrance and Old Faithful has restrooms plus a selection of snacks and drinks at a small but comfortable warming hut.

Other than bears, wildlife abounds across wide expanses of grasslands that link Yellowstone’s snowy mountain peaks. Hundreds of species roam peacefully within the nearly intact ecosystem that includes free-ranging bison and elk, moose, and big-horned sheep. Visitors may encounter an occasional bobcat, a lone wolf, or a majestic American bald eagle perched high atop a tree.

Our great American symbol

The terrain also travels through thick evergreen forests past rushing rivers that may eventually become scenic waterfalls further downriver. Layers of powdery snow insulate everything under a blanket of white. Stand quietly and savor the silence that seems to have a sound all its own: the hushed echoes of untamed vistas.

According to some sources, Native Americans inhabited the Yellowstone region for more than 11,000 years. Bypassed during the Lewis and Clark expedition, the land was ironically regarded as worthless by many because it contained no gold. Until the late 1860s there was no organized exploration, yet within a few years the region became what is believed to be the first national park in the world.

Heading into the caldera

Traveling through the geothermal activity of the caldera is an other-wordly experience somewhat like witnessing life in its embryonic stages. A short boardwalk stroll past bubbling pots of mud, brightly colored algae and steaming lava is like walking through a millennial past that seems light-years away rather than a few hundred yards from all that is familiar.

The culmination of the tour is Old Faithful with its clockwork performance, the fascination of visitors for decades. Other geysers, some even more impressive than Old Faithful, erupt in the distance. It is Mother Nature’s showcase in all her primitive glory.

Sunset in Big Sky, Montana

Many visitors prefer to stay in West Yellowstone, but another option is using Big Sky as a base. Big Sky ( is an easy 45-minute drive to Yellowstone, and the range of its winter activities includes snow mobiles, sleigh rides, dog sledding, fly fishing, cross country skiing, snowshoeing and, of course, skiing. With 220 named ski runs covering 110 miles on three separate mountains, Big Sky proudly claims to be home to the biggest skiing in America.

Montana in winter is mountains of fun, and during the winter, Yellowstone National Park is an undiscovered natural treasure.

Contact Bob at  <ahref=””>Google+</a>

Peabod is Bob Taylor, owner of Taylored Media Services in CharlotteNCTaylor is founder of The Magellan Travel Club, which creates, and escorts customized tours to SwitzerlandFrance and Italy for groups of 12 or more.

Inquiries for groups can be made at Taylored Media has produced marketing videos for British Rail, Rail Europe, Switzerland Tourism, the Swedish Travel & Tourism Council, the Finnish Tourist Board, the Swiss Travel System and Japan Railways Group among others.

As author of The Century Club book, Peabod is now attempting to travel to 100 countries or more during his lifetime. To date he has visited 71 countries. Suggest someplace new for Bob to visit; if you want to know where he has been, check his list on Facebook. Bob plans to write a sequel to his book when he reaches his goal of 100 countries. He also played professional baseball for four years and was a sportscaster for 14 years at WBTV, the CBS affiliate in Charlotte.



This article is the copyrighted property of the writer and Communities @ Written permission must be obtained before reprint in online or print media. REPRINTING TWTC CONTENT WITHOUT PERMISSION AND/OR PAYMENT IS THEFT AND PUNISHABLE BY LAW.

More from Travels with Peabod
blog comments powered by Disqus
Bob Taylor

Bob Taylor has been travel writer for more than three decades. Following a career as an award winning sports producer/anchor, Taylor’s media production business produced marketing presentations for Switzerland Tourism, Rail Europe, the Finnish Tourist Board, Japan Railways Group, the Swedish Travel & Tourism Council and the Swiss Travel System among others. He is founder of The Magellan Travel Club ( and his goal is to visit 100 countries or more during his lifetime.


Contact Bob Taylor


Please enable pop-ups to use this feature, don't worry you can always turn them off later.

Question of the Day
Photo Galleries
Popular Threads
Powered by Disqus