HALF MOON BAY, Calif., November 28, 2011—It may not be immediately noticeable when visiting New Zealand, but wildlife conservation is a big deal. Just an hour from downtown Wellington, Kapiti Island is one of New Zealand’s most successful nature reserves and is a model for wildlife and flora conservation.
Prior to human settlement in New Zealand, the only endemic mammals were bats, so the region’s rich birdlife thrived. But the introduction of predators (including rats, weasels, stoats, cats and dogs) and habitat destruction caused at least 50 endemic bird species to become extinct.
Since 1897, Kapiti Island has been used as a bird sanctuary. It’s also much more than a conservation island. People have lived here for more than 800 years, and their history survives through the stories and legends told by their ancestors who live on the island. In 1819, the great Maori warrior chief, Te Rauparaha, composed the haka that is now recited by the All Blacks—New Zealand’s national rugby team.
On a visit to Kapiti Island, a ferry drops you at Waiorua Bay along the rocky shoreline dotted with shiny paua (abalone) shells. Immediately, you’re surrounded by the calls of tui, kākā, saddleback, weka, takahē—and the noisy beat of the wings of the large kererū, the New Zealand pigeon.
Half- and full-day tours are offered on Kapiti Island by Kapiti Island Nature Tours, and both include an opportunity to view endangered New Zealand birds, as well as native flora and fauna. The day tours include either a tea and coffee break, or a tasty lunch.
One word of warning when you’re eating: The kākā, a bush parrot, may descend on you with no warning just to grab something from your plate. While it’s entertaining to watch, I avoided eating outside for that very reason. I didn’t want to battle with its sharp beak.
It’s the overnight visitors who stand a chance at seeing any of the 1,200 little spotted kiwi (the bird’s adorable Maori name is kiwi-pukupuku) on Kapiti Island. Aside from accommodations at the Kapiti Island Nature Lodge (including meals), overnight visitors can participate in a kiwi-spotting tour in the evening.
Little spotted kiwi are the smallest and most endangered in the kiwi family. The nocturnal birds have poor eyesight, but have a great sense of smell and good hearing. If you’re lucky, you’ll see them near the lodge, but burrows are found along the trail as well. Of course, as a daytime visitor, I saw the burrows—but no kiwi.
Next time, I’m spending the night.
Jill K. Robinson is an award-winning journalist and adventure seeker. Follow her adventures on dangerjillrobinson.com and Twitter @dangerjr. Jill and her husband are avid kayakers and own Half Moon Bay Kayak Company.
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