The spotlight shines on Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach

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  • Broadway by Amar Santana is a new culinary star in the heavens of Laguna Beach whose name deserves to be up in lights. Broadway by Amar Santana is a new culinary star in the heavens of Laguna Beach whose name deserves to be up in lights. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Broadway by Amar Santana is a destination restaurant in a beautiful space with a sophisticated atmosphere that transforms into a bustling up-scale Laguna Beach hang out long after dinner is done. Broadway by Amar Santana is a destination restaurant in a beautiful space with a sophisticated atmosphere that transforms into a bustling up-scale Laguna Beach hang out long after dinner is done. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • The interior of Broadway by Amar Santana is a high ceilinged open space that is both a temple of extraordinary food and wine and Laguna Beach's most sophisticated late night hang out. The interior of Broadway by Amar Santana is a high ceilinged open space that is both a temple of extraordinary food and wine and Laguna Beach's most sophisticated late night hang out. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Sous Chef Dino Duarte delivers flawless execution of a brilliant array of cuisine in the open kitchen at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Sous Chef Dino Duarte delivers flawless execution of a brilliant array of cuisine in the open kitchen at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Seasonal oysters on a half shell with a choice of spicy house cocktail sauce or citrus ponzu is a wonderful way to start any meal at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Breach. Seasonal oysters on a half shell with a choice of spicy house cocktail sauce or citrus ponzu is a wonderful way to start any meal at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Breach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • White bean and watercress salad is crisp, peppery, fabulous opening act for the sensational spectacle of food that is Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. White bean and watercress salad is crisp, peppery, fabulous opening act for the sensational spectacle of food that is Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Japanese Hamachi sashimi in a citrus miso dressing reaches new heights of brilliance when avocado ice cream joins the taste sensation at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Japanese Hamachi sashimi in a citrus miso dressing reaches new heights of brilliance when avocado ice cream joins the taste sensation at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Sous Chef Dino Duarte, on the right, leads the open air kitchen with precision and flawless execution of Executive Chef Amar Santana's vision at Broadway restaurant in Laguna Beach. Sous Chef Dino Duarte, on the right, leads the open air kitchen with precision and flawless execution of Executive Chef Amar Santana's vision at Broadway restaurant in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Mascarpone tortellini in a sage brown butter and pumpkin puree is an absolute triumph of delicate explosive flavor and brilliant texture at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Mascarpone tortellini in a sage brown butter and pumpkin puree is an absolute triumph of delicate explosive flavor and brilliant texture at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Spanish octopus is wonderful, tender and sweet, lovingly charred in a romesco sauce under a mound of crispy potato at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Spanish octopus is wonderful, tender and sweet, lovingly charred in a romesco sauce under a mound of crispy potato at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • A rare and deeply cherished Kosta Browne 2010 Koplen Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is a thrilling accompaniment to a fabulous meal at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. A rare and deeply cherished Kosta Browne 2010 Koplen Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is a thrilling accompaniment to a fabulous meal at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Porcini dusted veal sweetbreads with a truffle jus on a bed of pureed butternut squash is a succulent delight, wonderfully crisp on the outside and beautifully tender on the inside. Porcini dusted veal sweetbreads with a truffle jus on a bed of pureed butternut squash is a succulent delight, wonderfully crisp on the outside and beautifully tender on the inside. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Spice basted New Zealand venison in a juniper red wine jus is a sumptuous feast for the senses, a medium rare spectacle of sheer tender joy at Broadway by Amar Santana. Spice basted New Zealand venison in a juniper red wine jus is a sumptuous feast for the senses, a medium rare spectacle of sheer tender joy at Broadway by Amar Santana. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Herb roasted Mediterranean branzino is a wonderful taste sensation, crisp on the outside, flaky and tender on the inside, cooked to perfection at Broadway by Amara Santana in Laguna Beach. Herb roasted Mediterranean branzino is a wonderful taste sensation, crisp on the outside, flaky and tender on the inside, cooked to perfection at Broadway by Amara Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • An impeccable side dish of brussels sprouts with Chinese sausage, cilantro, and a proprietary sweet and sour sauce that is ridiculously amazing at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. An impeccable side dish of brussels sprouts with Chinese sausage, cilantro, and a proprietary sweet and sour sauce that is ridiculously amazing at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Server Tiffany Williams is brilliantly efficient as she leads the way through a sensational multicourse dinner at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Server Tiffany Williams is brilliantly efficient as she leads the way through a sensational multicourse dinner at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Spiced poached pear with pear sorbet and a Valrhona chocolate ganache is a stellar desert course at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach Spiced poached pear with pear sorbet and a Valrhona chocolate ganache is a stellar desert course at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Almond brown butter blueberry cake with blueberry-lemon-thyme jam and ginger ice cream, one of the enticing deserts at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach Almond brown butter blueberry cake with blueberry-lemon-thyme jam and ginger ice cream, one of the enticing deserts at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • A wine list of unusual depth and complexity is a joy to contemplate at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. A wine list of unusual depth and complexity is a joy to contemplate at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • Bartender Andrew Brune gets ready for the evenings festivities while devising the latest take on a series of specialty craft cocktails at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Bartender Andrew Brune gets ready for the evenings festivities while devising the latest take on a series of specialty craft cocktails at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • The dinner hour begins as the high ceilinged room fills with eager diners at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach The dinner hour begins as the high ceilinged room fills with eager diners at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach Photo by: Alison Reynolds
  • A large party enjoys an extraordinary dinner at the front table as seen through the window at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. A large party enjoys an extraordinary dinner at the front table as seen through the window at Broadway by Amar Santana in Laguna Beach. Photo by: Alison Reynolds

LAGUNA BEACH, CALIF., Oct. 29, 2013 – Broadway by Amar Santana elevates the level of fine dining in Laguna Beach by a quantum leap with this fantastic addition to the Orange County culinary scene.  Just celebrating its second anniversary, Broadway shines in the spotlight of critical attention, garnering well deserved acclaim with enthralling creative dishes that entice with their imaginative conception and delight with their execution. A uniquely singular and worthy destination restaurant, Broadway transforms a night out in Laguna Beach into a dining adventure that cries out for a standing ovation.

More than just an exceptional restaurant, or perhaps because of it, Broadway also boasts  the most sophisticated night life in Laguna Beach, with an active bar scene that goes well past the dinner hour. Set in a long high ceilinged room with an arching roof, the dining tables line one full side and the back of the restaurant, surrounding the open kitchen, while a lovely bar area with tall grey enameled tables fill the front. The whole vibe is very Northern California, and the combination of outstanding original cuisine with a casually gleaming party atmosphere is lovingly reminiscent of Charlie Palmer’s flagship Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg.

That may not be a coincidence, since Executive Chef Amar Santana was the head chef at Charlie Palmer’s Costa Mesa outpost for several years before opening Broadway, as was his Sous Chef Dino Duarte, but it has certainly served him well. Broadway crackles with an air of refined affluence, the excitement of a restaurant where you know the meal is going to be something special, and then warps it around a warm and elegantly engaging hang-out that hums into the wee hours. The soundtrack tonight only adds to the atmosphere, mostly Stax/Volt Memphis Soul with a little Van Morrison and Sam Cooke thrown in, one more piece in the puzzle of taking a restaurant and turning it into an experience.

Server Tiffany Williams is brilliantly efficient as she leads the way through a multicourse dinner. Sous Chef Dino Duarte dominates the line in the kitchen, which is a beehive of precision and focused attention to detail, impervious to the cacophony around them. The evening unfolds like a fine ballet, helped along by a wine list that lifts the heart with a depth of selection of truly superior wines that are a result of Chef Santana’s special relationships with some of Sonoma and Napa’s most prestigious vineyards.

A white bean and watercress salad with toasted walnuts and lime vinaigrette is crisp and peppery, the watercress tart, bursting with sharpness, the contrast in texture and taste with the beans and pancetta making for a wonderful opening act to linger over and savor. A mascarpone tortellini with sage brown butter and a pumpkin puree is a complete triumph of rich lingering flavors, with unforgettable buttery pockets of cheese and pumpkin goodness that is devoured with abandon and gone too soon. Japanese Hamachi sashimi in a citrus miso dressing is brilliant enough on its own, but avocado ice cream transforms this simple dish into something otherworldly, like a parlor trick so good it can’t be believed until tasted again.

Spanish octopus takes on a life of its own, tender and sweet, lovingly charred with a romesco sauce under an umbrella of potato ribbons. Veal sweetbreads are surprisingly thick and succulent, wonderfully crisp on the outside, perfectly cooked, grounded with a truffle jus on a bed of butternut squash. A rare and deeply cherished Kosta Browne 2010 Koplen Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is a thrilling accompaniment to a fabulous meal and a perfect reflection of just how deep and serious the wine list is.

Herb roasted Mediterranean branzino on a cauliflower puree with pickled clam shell mushrooms is absolutely sensational, the fish delicate and tender, juicy and light, the outer shell crisp, the texture perfect. Spice basted New Zealand venison in a juniper red wine jus with a pistachio and sweet potato puree is a sumptuous feast for the senses, a medium rare spectacle of sheer joy, melting away with each tender bite. Languish over each morsel and slowly drain the last of the Kosta Browne single vineyard pinot from the glass in appreciation for the inner knowledge of a truly grand meal well eaten.

Appetizers are around $15, and main courses run between $30 and $40 for the most part. Portions are amply generous, with no extreme small plates sensibility here, and a series of timely spaced appetizers with a couple of entrees is highly recommended. Take the opportunity to spend more than a couple hours, ease into each course, and enjoy the full show stopping experience that Broadway has to offer.

The early evening has given way to a full restaurant with a buzzing bar area. The joy of discovering a new landmark restaurant in the firmament is happily compounded by the enticing option of hanging out at a night spot whose clientele make you want to stick around. Broadway by Amar Santana is a new star in the heavens of Laguna Beach whose name deserves to be up in lights, and who can easily expect a very long run indeed.

www.broadwaybyamarsantana.com

Joel Berliner is a travel writer based in Los Angeles.


This article is the copyrighted property of the writer and Communities @ WashingtonTimes.com. Written permission must be obtained before reprint in online or print media. REPRINTING TWTC CONTENT WITHOUT PERMISSION AND/OR PAYMENT IS THEFT AND PUNISHABLE BY LAW.

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Joel Berliner

Joel Berliner is a travel writer based in Los Angeles who has written for The Washington Times, Dallas Morning News, New York Newsday, Chicago Tribune, Honolulu Advertiser, El Paso Times, and the Minneapolis Star Tribune, among many other publications.  He is excited to be back where his travel writing career began, at The Washington Times, where along with his wife, photographer extraordinaire Alison Reynolds, they will travel the globe in order to bring you The Good Life.

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