India: Once upon a time

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Today many of India's ancient forts have been converted into heritage hotels, a special treat for visitors. Photo: by Frank Raj

MIDDLE EAST, February 16, 2012 — Scattered all across one-time princely India are hundreds of forts, palaces and estates that were once the habitats of the various ruling families that once held dominion over India.

Today, these have been converted into heritage hotels, a special treat for India’s visitors.

FORT JADHAV GADH

One such fascinating heritage property is the 300 year old Fort Jadhav Gadh billed as "the world’s first museum hotel," near Pune in the Indian state of Maharashtra. Carefully restored by the Kamat Group, it is the first in a series of heritage forts being developed in Maharashtra and other locations in India.

About six hours from Mumbai airport, it is situated in the beautiful rolling hills 22 km away from Pune on the old Pune – Satara Road at a height of 2,511 feet above sea level. Fort Jadhav Gadh lies in the heart of the Jadhavwadi – the 25 acre property is a fine example of Maratha craftsmanship.

Fort Jadhav Gadh was built in 1710 by Raja Pillaji Jadhavrao a general in the army of the Maratha ruler Chhatrapati Shahuji Maharaj, the grandson of India’s legendary warrior king Chhatrapati Shivaji.

View of the Fort from a hill

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Pillaji Jadhavrao was a general in the army of Shahu Sambhaji Raje Bhosale Chhatrapati Maharaj (1682–1749), the fourth ruler of the Maratha Empire created by his grandfather, Chhatrapati Shivaji.

He was more popularly known as Chattrapati Shahuji, remarkably favored in captivity by his enemies the Mughals who ruled most of the Indian subcontinent from 1526 to 1764; he survived a civil war to gain the throne in 1707.

Shahuji's primary accomplishment was in stabilizing the fractured Maratha empire after the defeat of the Mughals.

Based in his hilltop hideaway in Fort Jadhavgadh, it is recorded that this strongman proved his mettle every time someone dared to challenge the supremacy of his leader. Stories of valor about the way he could use a sword are the stuff of legend.

A DIFFERENT HOLIDAY EXPERIENCE

Fort JadhavGadh, is a peaceful, out of the ordinary holiday experience.

This is a fort where the granite stairway leading into the citadel was designed to accommodate war elephants that could walk right inside the fort. Jadhavrao had a favorite tusker and a huge stone feeding plate for the beast, which you can see in what is now the hotel’s reception area.

If the brooding hills around are still quite deserted 300 years later, you can imagine what it must have been like for a fort of this size to be located in such rugged country and defended against the enemies of Pillaji Jadhavrao who obviously had a need to build such a fortress in his day.

The designer bathrooms and spacious rooms have a charming character; the rooms are called ‘Kholi’ in Marathi, and they have been designed seamlessly beside the massive walls of the fort. Tasteful interiors offer a touch of heritage without compromising ultra-modern luxuries and staff uniforms with typical headgear replicating Maratha history.

The pool area

Room views offer manicured lawns and the surrounding hills of the Western Ghats. With the striking walls of the fort as the backdrop the hotel has the capacity to host 4,000 people – weddings, product launches and theme parties can be majestic affairs.

Fort Jadhav Gadh is surrounded by hills dotted with small villages; you are far away from the city and there are no crowds and very few homes around, apart from the splendid dwelling of Pillaji Rao’s descendants, which is close by.

If you climb the surrounding bills, you will be rewarded with superb photographs of the fortification from a distance. (Tip: My credit card broke in two when I was sliding down an abrupt hill, so be careful on the incline and don’t keep your wallet in your rear pocket.)

DINING

When it comes to food, Fort Jadhav Gadh has two excellent restaurants located in the hotel, which offer casual to all day dining, bar-be-cue to traditional Indian cuisine to Continental fine dining and al-fresco options:

Chhajja – The Coffee Shop (Multi-Cuisine)

There is a regal coffee shop on the upper-level of the fort for delectable East and West cuisine. Their Poori Bhaji and Gobi Parathas (Indian wheat flatbread) with spicy potatoes and cauliflower for breakfast was excellent.

Payatha – Royal Ethnic Cuisine

Garden and Fort's wall Photo: author

Payatha, the Ethnic Foothill Restaurant, is located at the base of the fort and serves ethnic cuisine, in an open-air kitchen. Authentic Maharashtrian cuisine is a treat. Try the Chapatis (flat open fire roasted wheat bread) Bhakri (unleavened) bread, Kofta (meatballs) Curry, Vada-Pav, (spicy gram flour and potato in buns), Bhindi (okra) Masala, Aamti, (lentils, tomatoes, green chilies in Indian spices) and Modak, (sweet dumpling of coconut and jaggery or Suji Halwa (cream of wheat with cardamom) for dessert.

Be sure to pack a picnic lunch with bottled water. Eating out in remote locations is not advisable.

HOW TO GET THERE

The closest airport is Pune, detailed instructions are available online: www.fortjadhavgadh.com

Frank Raj is based in Dubai and Goa, India. He is the founder of the Guild of International Travelers & Associates (GITA), an informal network of friends who love to help one another for friendship and travel.

Read more of Frank's work Email Frank. Follow @frankraj08 on Twitter

 

 


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Frank Raj

Middle East and India based Frank Raj is the founding editor and publisher of ‘The International Indian’, the oldest magazine of Gulf-Indian society and history since 1992. He is listed in Arabian Business magazine’s 100 most influential Indians in the Gulf and is co-author of the upcoming publication ‘Universal Book of the Scriptures.’ He blogs at www.no2christianity.com.

 

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