Baltimore, Maryland ... Chef Spike Gjerde’s brings the trending “farm-to-table” concept to his Baltimore Maryland Woodberry Kitchen. But he does so without pretension or gimmick.
Farro & Roast Vegetables and Pot Roast at
Woodberry Kitchen Photo/J. Kubin
The food is traditional working family living in a harbor-town-fare.
The menus states the philosophy “Our goal is to nourish and delight our guests with cooking grounded in the traditions and ingredients of the Chesapeake Region.”
Oysters, chicken and biscuits, venison sausage with sauerkraut and Maryland’s staple, Rockfish and chips.
And of course, pot roast. A blue-collar Baltimore meal. But this isn’t momma’s pot roast.
This is large succulent pieces of braised short ribs, served with fresh carrots, fingerling potatoes, roasted shallots and a kicky garlic confit.
Resting regally on top is a waffled pastry lid – like a woven basket only with plenty of space to let the steam from the dishes rich juices escape, keeping the pastry crisp and fun to eat.
Nope. Mom never made pot roast taste this good.
The restaurant is located just outside of Baltimore’s downtown and accessible by light rail. The area’s name goes back to the early 1800’s when the first flour and cotton mills appeared.
With time other industrial companies moved into the area leaving high-ceiling, crumbling brick buildings that are being renovated into living, shopping and dining places.
The atmosphere at Woodberry Kitchen is that of a hip space with the large open ceiling and raw bricks of a steel mill. Even on a chilly Thursday night folks are waiting for a table or space at the bar.
At the back of the room is a long, narrow open kitchen where a dozen or so chefs busily move about in their area, at the center of which is a wood burning oven from which all sorts of delicacies emerge.
Moving to the East coast, I learned to love raw oysters. Salty, raw on the half shell. A mignonette sauce spiced with a bit of horseradish and Tabasco became a sought after treat – a purist I never considered them something to be cooked.
Until now. Chef Spike puts the oyster onto a bed of sea salt, layered on a cast iron flat. On top of those plump Momo oysters, goes a generous portion of garlic-soy butter, finely chopped daikon radish and crisp slivers of pork belly.
This is all set into the wood burning stove. The cast iron transfers the heat from the stone to the shell, slightly roasting the oysters, gently melting the garlic-soy butter, the heat meshing the salt, the savory, the crisp and the tart into a dish hard to stop eating.
Woodbury does a lot of things that are hip, trendy. But they are done with a sense of fun. Don’t take it all too seriously and just enjoy the experience.
Woodberry Kitchen Roasted Momo Oysters
Photo/J. Kubin
The dishes that graced the table were each recognizable and warm.
The Ladyfinger popcorn, a small puff of tender, hulless popcorn generously drizzled in butter and sea salt is a fun start to the evening providing something to munch on while enjoying some of their unique cocktails.
The Sazerac, which New Orleans originators at Commander’s Palace claim to be America’s first cocktail, combines Maryland rye, Philadelphia absinthe, Peychaud’s bitters and a lemon peel to create the perfect cocktail.
When you want just one. I can just drink one.
Others at the table enjoyed the Clear Creek Pear Flip – organic vodka, pear liquor, lemon, spiced syrup and a twist. It was declared to be refreshing and original One I would want to try on a future visit is the Headless Horseman a combination of Smooth Kentucky bourbon and spiced heirloom pumpkin syrup.
Vegetables are placed prominently throughout the menu in dishes like a Roseda Farm Tavern Steak with white finger sweet potatoes and rocket, a green leaf that when in a salad answers to the name arugula.
Chef’s choice for my dinner was the Hubbard Squash Farro, a mélange of roasted carrots, potatoes, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, onion, kale served around a helping of Farro, an ancient wheat grain that some compare to spelt, that had been prepared with apple.
Served with a Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc, it proved to be a tasty dish. But it is one that requires the right wine to bring out the subtle nuances. A bolder wine might overpower the dish while the savory of the Farro balanced the tartness of the Sauvignon Blanc.
It provided for a vegetarian dish, which was appreciated after all those Momo oysters, that was created with considerable thought on how to create something different. Though I might ask for a salt cellar with a crunchy Sel Gris to add some bite to the dish and tone the dishes bitter greens.
Deserts continue the fun. Crisp warm cookies, Sweet Potato Pie served with vanilla marshmallow, cranberry sauces, brown sugar and cinnamon ice cream are really too good.
Flatbreads in the wood oven Photo/J.Kubin
But the restaurant recently had a revolt on its hands with they took their CMP desert off the menu. This sundae consists of savory malt ice cream, chocolate sauce, marshmallow fluff and crushed salty wet peanuts. Its served in a glass with a spun sugar lid and its fantastic.
Prices are moderate for farm fresh, regional, organic foods. Yes food from around these parts costs more, but really for the flavor, the freshness, for the chance to spend your entertainment dollars supporting the place where you live, well it's just all worth it.
Even the wines and spirits are locally sourced. And really, that’s the way it should be. Not a trend for now.
But a sustainable dining choice that you can feel good about making.
Woodberry Kitchen
410-464-8000
2010 Clipper Park Road, No. 126
Baltimore, MD 2121
Jacquie Kubin is a 15 year, award-winning veteran of travel and culinary writing. Today Jacquie edits and directs a staff of writers for Donne Tempo Magazine and is always looking for new talents who wish to expand their horizons. Email Jacquie with ideas, questions or to share your writing dreams. Follow Donne Tempo on Twitter and Facebook.
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