LOS ANGELES, Dec. 2011—Bourbon has been made by the Samuels family for eight generations, according to Maker’s Mark’s Diplomat April Gallegos. “They only stopped three times, World War I, Prohibition and World War II,” Ms. Gallegos said. “They used the alcohol for other things to help the war efforts.”
She led a paired tasting of Maker’s Mark, and Maker’s 46. The fine Kentucky bourbons were sampled neat and in cocktail forms recently at Red Medicine in Los Angeles. Gallegos explained how bourbon is made and how Maker's 46 developed.
Maker’s Mark in its current form, was created by Bill Samuels who experimented for several years beginning in 1953. He wanted to improve the 170-year-old secret recipe handed down from father to son. Samuels experimented with different grains by baking bread to develop the mix of corn, malted barley and red winter wheat now used. He preferred the smooth, soft flavor lent by the wheat instead of the harsher rye. Baking bread was faster, easier and cheaper. The mash mix that made the best tasting bread became the mash to begin distillation.
Steps in bourbon making
“Bourbon is brewed in Kentucky for the water. The limestone spring water is iron-free,” said Gallegos. “Iron in the water will turn the whiskey black.” After the mash is distilled twice to 110 proof, the whiskey is aged in charred new oak barrels. The charring, done very precisely, caramelizes the sugars in the wood.
Barrels get recycled by being sold to Laphroaig Scotch in Scotland. (Very appropriate since founder Robert Samuels migrated from Scotland in1784.) The barrels are stored in a six-story wooden rickhouse, where temperatures vary widely with the season. The temperature changes cause the whiskey to move in and out of the oak, adding flavor and color. Barrels are rotated from upper to lower levels of the warehouses but all lose volume due to evaporation, known as the angels’ share.
Gallegos mentioned a study done by Dave Pickerel which showed the Kentucky climate will speed up the maturing process by about 4 to 1. They did the study by trading barrels, scotch for bourbon. “The Kentucky heat causes more alcohol expansion pushing through the sugar layer, and the cold drawing out. In Scotland it is more like keeping your bourbon in a humid cooler,” said Pickerel. The measure was subjective, (tasting) not scientific.
After five decades of making only one product, Master Distiller Kevin Smith wanted to make something new and different. After several unsuccessful attempts he enlisted Brad Boswell, owner of Independent Stave, Maker’s barrel maker, to help. More experimenting followed. Finally they took aged Maker’s Mark and returned it to the barrels with the addition of French oak staves seared to a specific point. “The staves are toasted at a 46 profile, (it’s proprietary information), meaning how high the heat and how long it’s toasted,” said Gallegos.
Bottled at 94 proof, Maker's 46 is said to possess caramel and vanilla notes, creamyseared-oak favors withno bitter bite or burn in the finish.
Menu
Red Medicine presented a series of 10 amazing dishes by Chef/partner Jordan Kahn paired with Maker’s cocktails, following are just a few.
Pork rillette done with crispy chicken skin, lychee, clove and pistachios came with a drink of Maker’s Mark. Lime, grenadine and ginger beer.
Maker’s, pineapple syrup, mint, grapefruit peel and bitters was served with Wagyu beef brisket braised with palm sugar, fish sauce and Maker’s Mark.
A version of eggnog, Maker’s 46, coconut milk, egg yolk, sugar and spices accompanied Kahn’s dessert of coconut bavarois, coffee, condensed milk, Thai basil, peanut croquant and chicory.
Following are two cocktails with Maker’s Mark.
Brown Suga'
Brown Suga'
Maestro Dobel Reposado Tequila
Maker's Mark
Panela (cane sugar)
Lime juice
Sherry
Rim the entire martini glass with the lime. Mix other ingredients to taste, shake and pour.
Created by Chapter One the modern local, Santa Ana, Calif, Mixologist Jeffrey Hall
The Loretto Lush
1 1/2 oz Makers Mark
1/2 oz Maurin Quina Liqueur
1 bar spoon Stirrings Ginger
4 dashes Peychauds Bitters
1 heaping bar spoon of orange marmalade
Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass.
Fill with ice and shake until frost forms on the tin.
Strain into Chilled cocktail glass
Garnish with a fresh orange twist.
Created by Blush(Santa Barbara) General Manager and Mixologist Josh Lewi
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