LA JOLLA, Calif. - California's award-winning chef duo Bernard Guillas and Ron Oliver of the landmark Marine Room restaurant at the La Jolla Beach & Tennis Club recently released their debut cookbook, "Flying Pans: Two Chefs, One World."
They shared two recipes from the book’s section titled “Roots of the Bounty, Global Dining.” Photos are by Gregory Bertollini.
"Flying Pans" retails for $35 and is available at Borders, Barnes & Noble, Ingram and Baker & Taylor, as well as at www.twochefsoneworld.com.
Huancayo Purple Potato Salad
Organic egg, pickled red onions, queso fresco
(Serves 6 family style)
Chef’s note: The main reason I went to Huancayo, Peru, was to see the very town that inspired this dish. After leaving Lima by train, rising to 15,000 feet, and passing through 69 tunnels and 58 bridges (yes, I counted them), we settled in Huancayo, the culinary mecca of the Peruvian Andes. I was amazed at the different colors and shapes of potatoes in the outdoor markets – orange, purple, red, swirled, yellow, white, finger-shaped, caterpillar-shaped, kidney-shaped and more. “Potatoes in the style of Huancayo” is a regional dish of boiled potatoes smothered with cheese sauce. It is typically served with sliced onions, boiled eggs and corn on the side. I like to serve all the components on one platter with the sauce on the bottom to showcase the beautiful color of Peruvian purple potatoes. Ron
Sauce
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 cup chopped seeded yellow bell pepper
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon chile powder
1/2 cup half and half
2 large egg yolks
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/2 pound queso fresco cheese, crumbled
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Add oil to skillet over medium low heat. Add bell pepper, sugar, turmeric and chile powder. Cook 3 minutes, stirring often. Pour in half and half. Bring to simmer. Whisk yolks and lemon juice in large mixing bowl. Whisk bell pepper mixture into yolks. Transfer mixture to blender. Add cheese, salt and pepper. Puree at medium speed until smooth. Transfer to shallow bowl. Refrigerate until chilled.
Corn and Potatoes
2 ears sweet corn, shucked
2 pounds purple potatoes, washed
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons olive oil
To taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring 2 quarts lightly salted water to boil. Add corn. Cook 5 minutes. Cool. Return water to simmer. Add potatoes. Cook 15 minutes or until tender. Drain in colander. Rinse under cold water. Refrigerate until chilled. Cut potatoes crosswise into 1/4-inch thick slices, discarding end pieces. Slice corn crosswise into
1-inch thick wheels. Transfer potatoes and corn to cookie sheet. Whisk lemon juice, oil, salt and pepper in mixing bowl. Brush onto both sides of corn and potatoes.
Presentation
1 medium red onion
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon coarse sea salt
6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled, quartered
18 whole black olives
18 sprigs parsley
To taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Slice onion into 1/8-inch thick wheels. Separate into rings. Toss with red wine vinegar and sea salt. Set aside for 5 minutes. Spoon sauce over entire surface of large ceramic serving platter. Arrange potatoes and corn atop. Garnish with eggs, olives, onion rings and parsley sprigs. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Wattleseed Rubbed Ostrich Fan Filet, Australia
Beetroot Jam, Peppery Greens, Blackberry Grenache Reduction
(Serves 4)
Chef’s note: My first encounter with ostrich was in the middle of Australia in the mountainous village of Hall’s Gap, located between Melbourne and Adelaide. I was looking for an aboriginal site on my way to Mount Langhi Ghiran winery. Traveling through the bush on a dirt road, under the baking sun, the ride was bumpy, slow, and dusty. Suddenly, out of nowhere, I caught sight of a flock of beautiful creatures running by the side of the car. Focused, on a mission, one by one, they passed me with great speed and elegance, all legs and feathers. The show was over quickly, as the flock disappeared into the dense habitat of the forest canopy. Maybe they realized I was a chef. Bernard
Beet Root Jam
2 tablespoons grapeseed oil
1 pound thinly sliced red onion
1 1/2 pounds red beets, peeled, grated
2 dried red chiles
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
1/4 cup apricot jam
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
To taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Add grapeseed oil to saucepan over medium heat. Add onion, beet, chiles and thyme. Cook 30 minutes or until liquid evaporates, stirring occasionally. Add apricot jam, vinegar and sugar. Cook 20 minutes or until jam consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Discard chiles. Set jam aside to cool.
Wattleseed Spice
1/4 cup ground wattleseed or grind cocoa nibs into powder
1 tablespoon cocoa nibs
1/4 cup sliced toasted almonds
1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Add all ingredients to coffee grinder. Process to coarse consistency. Transfer to shallow plate. Set aside.
Ostrich
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 5-ounce ostrich fan fillets
1 pint blackberries
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon orange zest
1/2 cup grenache wine
2 sprigs thyme
1 cup chicken stock
To taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Add butter to large skillet over medium high heat. Season ostrich with salt and pepper on all sides. Place in skillet. Cook on all sides until medium rare. Transfer ostrich to wattleseed mixture. Roll to coat thoroughly. Discard excess butter from skillet and return to medium high heat. Add blackberries, shallots, brown sugar and orange zest. Cook 2 minutes, stirring often. Add grenache and thyme. Bring to simmer. Reduce by two thirds. Add chicken stock. Reduce to syrupy consistency. Strain through fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper. Cool. Transfer to squeeze bottle.
Presentation
1 cup arugula leaves
1/2 cup watercress leaves
1/4 cup parsley leaves
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 bartlett pear, cored, cut in matchsticks
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese
To taste sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 sprigs marjoram
Gently toss all ingredients in mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Mound salad in center of warm serving plate. Slice ostrich fillets into 5 medallions. Fan around salad. Squeeze sauce onto plate. Garnish with beet root jam.
Chefs Bernard Guillas and Ron Oliver
FLYING PANS—TWO CHEFS ONE WORLD
Linda Mensinga was editor of Culinary Trends for 15 years, now a contributing writer. If you have a great restaurant, recipe or food you’d like to share please send an email. You can reach her at mensingabakes@gmail.com or Linda@culinarytrends.net.
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